After an amazing first part of the Atlantic Canada trip in Nova Scotia, we continued our journey into the picturesque and welcoming province of New Brunswick.
Though you can drive to New Brunswick from Nova Scotia, the two-hour ferry to Saint John offers a scenic and comfortable journey, complete with bars, restaurants, and even a small cinema. I enjoyed the top deck as the weather was pleasantly cooler.
New Brunswick's Bay of Fundy Coast is a treasure trove of marine wonders. Its rugged beauty, shaped by the world’s highest tides, is dotted with historic fishing villages and charming seaside resorts.
Bordering Maine, this maritime province boasts a rich collection of migratory whales, marine mammals, and the rare North Atlantic Right Whale.
SAINT JOHN
Our New Brunswick adventure began in Saint John, Canada's oldest incorporated city and the sole city on the Bay of Fundy.
Arriving in the early evening, we headed straight to the Hilton Saint John, where we were warmly welcomed with gifts from Tourism New Brunswick and the hotel.
Saint John is a dynamic port city where nature and urban life meet. Here, the tides run backwards twice a day, and the city hosts the world’s most powerful tug-of-war due to its unique geological setting.
Dinner at the Ale House was a treat, offering 30 craft beers to sample. As an ale enthusiast, I opted for a paddle taster, paired with a delightful lobster risotto.
The Plank at Reversing Falls
This is where you can witness the dramatic tidal effect on the St John River. During high and low tides, the bay's water rushes up the river, reversing its flow. This spectacle occurs within a 20-minute window when it's safe for boats to pass through.
Astonishingly, more than 160 billion tonnes of water move in and out of the Bay of Fundy each day - more than the combined flow of all the freshwater rivers on earth.
Fort La Tour
Fort La Tour, a historic fortification dating back to the early 17th century, was originally built by French explorers as a defensive outpost and trading hub. It also serves as a significant site for First Nations burial grounds.
Today, it offers a glimpse into early colonial history through its preserved structures and informative exhibits.
Saint John City Market
The Saint John City Market is a great spot for lunch, with a variety of food and beverage options housed in a historic building. Other highlights of our visit included a fascinating beer-tasting tour across three different breweries and my spirited attempt at axe throwing - an enjoyable and quintessentially Canadian experience.
I loved my time in Saint John. The city’s walkable layout and friendly atmosphere made it a memorable part of our trip.
ST ANDREWS BY THE SEA
At the southern tip of the Bay of Fundy lies St Andrews, an iconic seaside retreat presided over by the historic Algonquin Hotel, affectionately known as the 'Castle by the Sea'. This endearing town is perfect for those seeking unique artisan crafts and local souvenirs.
Despite challenging weather, our whale-watching excursion on a catamaran was thrilling. The cold and damp conditions didn’t dampen our excitement when we spotted a minke whale feeding. We also encountered eagles, seals, and seabirds, with the crew handling the tricky conditions admirably.
Nearby Kingsbrae Garden offers beautiful, family-friendly gardens. We even saw deer trying to sneak in for a taste of the treats.
The Algonquin Hotel, more of a resort than a mere hotel, deserves a two-night stay. It features a pool with a slide - ideal for families - and even hosts nightly ghost tours for the brave. I gave it a try but slept with the lights on that night!
ST MARTINS & FUNDY PARKWAY
Our drive on the Fundy coastal route took us through charming villages, including the picturesque fishing village of St Martins, known for its sandstone caves sculpted by the Bay of Fundy tides.
In St Martins, visitors can explore miles of pristine beaches, discover the vibrant fishing community, visit the bustling harbour with its twin-covered bridges, and explore the intriguing sea caves and salt marshes. Adventurers can explore the caves at low tide or by kayak at high tide.
The Fundy Parkway was perhaps my favourite part of this incredible trip, filled with countless "wow" moments! This scenic road hugs the coastal cliffs of the Bay of Fundy and stretches 30km. It offers numerous car parks, stops and lookouts where you can marvel at waterfalls, beaches and breathtaking views, with plenty of hiking opportunities to delve deeper into the landscape.
Near the Interpretive Centre, a suspension footbridge spans the Big Salmon River, marking the start of the Fundy Footpath - a continuous wilderness trail extending 41km to the Fundy National Park of Canada.
Further along the coast, we visited the small hamlet of Cape Enrage, home to another beautiful lighthouse and stunning vistas. While our time here was brief, Cape Enrage is perfect for adventure activities and boasts a wide, unspoiled beach.
MONCTON
Known as 'The Hub of the Maritimes', Moncton is the most populous city in New Brunswick where English and French cultures blend seamlessly.
I was struck again by the incredibly friendly and generous local people. The city is ideally positioned between the Fundy and Acadian coasts and is relatively close to Prince Edward Island and the Nova Scotia borders.
Our stay at the Hyatt Place featured another beautiful, spacious room.
We had a fantastic time taking a cocktail and culinary class at the Brix Experience. We created a delightful gin concoction with apple and lavender and made a delicious pasta filled with local lobster. It was a fun and memorable class!
Magnetic Hill Winery
Due to a hectic schedule, our visit to the Magnetic Hill Winery happened in the morning, a fine start to our last full day!
The wine industry here is relatively new due to local laws and the challenging climate, but the winery’s experimentation has earned several awards. We tasted various wines, including a cranberry wine and my favourite, a blueberry wine, paired with a delicious cheese and meat charcuterie board. A fine breakfast!
HOPEWELL ROCKS
Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park is home to the iconic rocks of the Bay of Fundy, including Lovers Rock, formed by two independent rocks resting against each other, creating a pretty arch.
Numerous lookout points offer views of the sandstone undercut by the constant rise and fall of the tide. We were lucky to visit as the tide was going out, allowing us to see the rocks out of the water. It was 99 steps down to the bottom and, oddly, 101 steps back to the top. It wasn’t the easiest climb, but it was definitely worthwhile if you can manage it.
THE RETURN TO HALIFAX
New Brunswick surprised me with its prettiness and lovely people, and I hope to return to explore it further.
On the final leg of the trip, we took the longer drive back to Halifax. We stopped at Masstown Market for a wander around the shops and eateries, enjoying a traditional fish and chip lunch.
Having heard so much about Halifax and the Titanic, we visited the Titanic memorial area in a local cemetery, where many of the recovered bodies were buried, some never identified.
It was fascinating and sobering, but important to have a place for people to remember those who died.
The cemetery also has a section dedicated to the 2,000 people who died in the 1917 Halifax explosion when a munitions ship blew up in the harbour.
I genuinely enjoyed everything about this trip and all the amazing things we did. The people are so welcoming, and I’ve made important connections with those who provide great experiences for visitors, helping me offer a better service for my clients.
I can’t wait to help plan your East Coast Canadian adventures.
